Kuthodaw Pagoda
729 Inscribed marble slabs, known as “the world’s largest book”
The Kuthodaw pagoda in Mandalay comprises of a gilded pagoda, hundreds of shrines housing inscribed marble slabs and several pavilions. The pagoda is also called “the world’s largest book”, named after the 729 marble slabs inscribed with Buddhist teachings.
In Burmese known as the Maha Lawka Marazein Paya, the Kuthodaw is located at the foot of Mandalay Hill. The large grounds offer good views upwards of Mandalay Hill with its many temples and pagodas.
“Royal merit pagoda”
The Kuthodaw Paya or “Royal merit pagoda” was built by King Mindon Min at the same time the nearby Royal Palace was built. Construction started shortly after the founding of Mandalay in 1857. The King built the Kuthodaw to leave a great work of merit for future generations.
The Kuthodaw pagoda resembles the nearby Sandamuni pagoda that also features a large zedi and hundreds of inscribed marble slabs, which are contained in a smaller, more compact area.
Entrance gate and corridor leading to the central zedi
The main entrance to the grounds is the ornate, gold and red South gate which is adorned with sculptings of deities and animals from Buddhist and Hindu mythology. The gate is topped with several multi tiered Pyatthat roofs and a hti. From there, a long covered corridor leads to the stupa at the center of the grounds. Mural paintings from the late Konbaung period (second half of the 19th century) adorn its walls. At the end of the corridor is a pavilion enshrining an image of the Buddha.
The world’s largest book
Surrounding the pagoda are 729 shrines each containing a single marble slab inscribed in both sides in Burmese script. Together, the 729 slabs are called “the world’s largest book”, each stone slab representing one of its pages. The slabs are inscribed with texts of the Sutta Pitaka, the Vinaya Pitaka and Abhidhamma Pitaka, the three parts that make up the Tripitaka, the teachings of the Buddha written in ancient Pali language.
King Mindon ordered the “book” to be made. The works started in 1860 and took 8 years to complete. The texts were copied from ancient manuscripts written on dried palm leaf, the letters chiselled out of the stone and inlaid with gold leaf. Each marble slab measuring 153 centimeters tall and 107 centimeters wide is enshrined in a structure called Dhamma ceti or kyauksa gu in Burmese, “gu” meaning cave.
The white shrines are lined in rows around the complex, with corridors in between wide enough to walk through. Each Dhamma ceti houses a single slab behind openable gates. The shrines have an entrance on all four sides with elaborately decorated arches over them and are topped with a hti, an ornamental spire. One more slab (no 730) tells the story of how the world’s largest book came about.
Gilded pagoda
At the center of the complex is a gilded pagoda measuring 57 meters tall. The pagoda was built in 1859, modelled on the Shwezigon pagoda in Bagan. Its bell shaped stupa rests on a base of three square receding tiers. At the four corners of the pagoda are four large golden Chinthe, mythological lions, that guard the pagoda. On each side a stairway rises to the base of the bell. The pagoda is topped with a large multi tiered hti, an ornamental spire shaped like an umbrella.
On top of a pole in front of the pagoda is a Galon (Garuda, a bird from Buddhist and Hindu mythology) grabbing a Naga serpent. Next to the pagoda is a small elegant open pavilion housing a Buddha image in the “Calling the Earth to witness” posture, seated on an elaborate pedestal.
Desecration and restoration
When the British army seized Mandalay in 1885 the grounds of the Kuthodaw were used as a garrison. The British vandalized the Kuthodaw complex, stole the gold, jewels and other gems from the hti of the pagoda and removed the gold from the letters on the slabs.
After the British had left restoration works started mostly funded by donations from Burmese people. The pagoda was regilded, the letters on the marble slabs redone in black ink instead of gold. It took several decades until the works were completed and the Kuthodaw was restored to its former glory.
How to get to the Kuthodaw pagoda
The pagoda is located just East of the Mandalay Royal Palace in the North part of Mandalay, very near the Sandamuni pagoda, Atumashi monastery and Shwenandaw Monastery.
Opening hours
The pagoda opens daily from 8 am until 8 pm.
Entrance fee
Entrance fee is US$ 5 per person.